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Hardwood Flooring FAQs Refinishing Installation, and Care

What is hardwood flooring refinishing?

Hardwood floor refinishing is sanding away the old finish and a thin layer of wood, fixing minor damage, then applying stain and new protective coats. It restores look and durability.

Yes, if the floor has surface wear, scratches, or dull finish but the boards are structurally sound. Refinishing costs less than full replacement, keeps original wood, and usually increases home appeal.

Expect roughly $3 to $8 per square foot for a typical professional refinish. Costs vary with region, repairs, furniture moving, and type of finish. For 1,000 sq ft that is about $3,000 to $8,000. For free estimates, you can contact us.

A typical 1,000 sq ft job takes about 3 to 5 days from prep to final coat drying for light foot traffic. Complex layouts, repairs, or extra coats add time.

Yes for small areas if you rent the right equipment, follow safety steps, and practice on scraps. Pros recommend hiring a contractor for large jobs, complex repairs, or if you want guaranteed results.

 

You can screen and recoat to refresh the finish without full sanding. That will not change the wood color because it only renews the top finish. If you need a new stain color you must sand to bare wood first. Use a proper recoat system to remove contaminants first.

Resurfacing or recoat lightly abrades the finish and adds a new topcoat. Refinishing sands to bare wood and replaces both stain and finish. Resurfacing is quicker and cheaper but only works if the wood itself is not damaged.

Check for uniform color and sheen, gaps at seams, uneven boards, squeaks, finish runs or bubbles, adhesive or glue residue, and proper perimeter trim. Walk the room and inspect at different light angles. Use a checklist and document issues for the installer to fix.

Yes. Hardwood floors often give a strong return on investment and are one of the top remodeling features buyers prefer. They can improve marketability and perceived value.

 

Choose by use and budget. Solid hardwood fits long runs and can be refinished many times. Engineered hardwood tolerates moisture better and works over concrete. Pick species based on hardness, color, and grain. Ask for samples and test in your light.

Hardwood is durable, refinishable, timeless, and improves indoor air quality compared with carpet. It often raises resale appeal. It can scratch or dent more easily than tile or vinyl and usually costs more.

Kitchens are usually fine with solid or engineered hardwood if spills are cleaned quickly. Bathrooms are riskier because standing water can warp wood. Consider engineered wood or water resistant products for bathrooms.

Sweep or dust mop daily, vacuum weekly with a floor-brush attachment, wipe spills quickly, use rugs in high traffic spots, and recoat or refinish when wear appears. Avoid excessive water and harsh cleaners.

Use a dry dust mop or vacuum. For deeper cleaning use manufacturer-approved cleaners and a damp mop only when recommended. Do not flood floors. Test products in an inconspicuous area first.

Use felt pads on furniture, area rugs near entryways, trim pet nails, lift heavy items instead of dragging, and maintain the finish with periodic recoats. For small scratches use approved touch-up kits.

Yes. Hardwood does not trap dust, pollen, or pet dander the way carpet does, so it helps indoor air quality for allergy sufferers. Keep floors clean to maximize benefit.

Wood is renewable when sourced responsibly. Look for Certified wood like FSC or reclaimed wood to reduce impact. Finish choices and adhesives also matter for indoor air quality and VOCs.

With proper care, solid hardwood can last decades to a century and can be refinished multiple times. Engineered floors last 20 to 40 years depending on wear layer thickness and maintenance.

Yes. Reclaimed or recycled wood is widely used for flooring. It adds character and reduces demand on new timber. Ensure boards are inspected, cleaned, and milled to current standards.

Yes if you use low-tack painter tape and breathable protection. Avoid long term taping or high-adhesion tapes that can lift finish or leave residue. Test tape on a small area first.

It can if dragged. Always lift or use a dolly, protective runners, or plywood sheets. Use appliance sliders and place rubber feet or a protective mat under heavy items to distribute weight.

Methods include nail-down, glue-down, and floating. Choice depends on wood type, subfloor, and room. Installers acclimate boards, stagger seams, leave expansion gaps, and finish with trim work. Follow manufacturer instructions.

Installation cost varies by material and method. Expect roughly $3 to $10 or more per square foot for labor and basic materials, plus the floor material cost. Total depends on species, engineered versus solid, and site prep.

A straight 1,000 sq ft installation generally takes several days to a week depending on layout, subfloor prep, adhesive curing, and finishing. Complex patterns or repairs take longer.

Ensure subfloor is clean, dry, level, and free of mold. Measure moisture levels for concrete or wood subfloors. Remove old flooring where required and acclimate wood planks to room conditions before installation.

Control indoor humidity, leave correct expansion gaps at perimeters, acclimate wood before install, and use proper fastening. Gaps shrink or expand with moisture changes, so manage humidity with HVAC and humidifiers or dehumidifiers.

Common items are flooring planks, underlayment, nails or adhesive, table saw, miter saw, flooring nailer or stapler, moisture meter, spacers, pry bars, and finishing trim. Professionals add buffers and sanding gear for site finishing.

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